I have borrowed so many cookbooks from the library this year that I have enough recipes copied to keep me busy for the winter!
One cookbook inspired me to make one of my childhood favorites, French Onion Soup Gratineed that we enjoyed for dinner and a subsequent lunch this past week. Although this cookbook’s recipe looked lovely, I decided to refer to the doyenne, Julia Child for her approach. I compared the recipe she originally published in Mastering the Art of French Cooking with a recipe in a later book, The Way To Cook that I used to read like a novel on many mornings before trudging off to work. I found it relaxing to look through the colorful pages with step by step instructions on how to cook almost anything you can imagine. At that time, cookbooks were just beginning to have more photography, like the original Martha Stewart cookbooks Entertaining and Quick-Cook Menus which I also loved to pour over. Headnotes became more descriptive, stories were being told and the photos were just beautiful. All a large contrast with my banking job at the time, and a welcome respite!
Back to Julia’s recipes, the major difference between the recipes published decades apart is that she added an extra pound of onions which can never be bad, but just means more slicing! The most difficult part of making French Onion Soup quite honestly is having the patience to properly caramelize the onions. To assist, I used my favorite Le Creuset cast iron pan because it conducts heat so well. Julia’s method is to cook the onions in butter and a smidge of oil for 10 minutes with the pot covered, almost steaming them if you will to soften. After that and with the cover off, the onions continue to cook for about 30 minutes until they are almost uniformly brown and sweetened. From there, the recipe is super easy. If you just wanted to make caramelized onions for any other use, this is a great method so keep it in mind.
If you decide to make the recipe, here are a few other things I did. Julia calls for dry vermouth in the cookbook, rather than white wine which I prefer as the flavor is unmistakable and tastes authentic. I did, however, omit the use of brandy but I’m sure it would be delicious if you wanted to use it! Instead of beef stock and veering away from authenticity, I used a homemade vegetable broth rather than beef and I think I may have preferred it. And for the infamous topping of bread and gruyere cheese, I made croutons which I then added to the hot soup, sprinkled with the cheese and then broiled. I think the croutons make it easier to eat! Food Network’s version of Julia’s recipe is pretty similar to the one I used but mine called for 3 Tablespoons of butter, 2 Tablespoons of flour and 10 cups of stock…
Now, it has absolutely nothing to do with soup, but let’s talk about the holidays. It’s hard to know what to say! Many of us won’t see our extended families over the holidays and that is such a bummer. But like the Whos in Whoville rejoiced, the holidays will still happen and hopefully we can celebrate them in our own, small and unique ways this year. Who knows? Maybe some new traditions will begin. Let’s all pray that the landscape is much improved a year from now.
If you are serving a small group, it could be fun to experiment with your tradtional menu. There are no rules to follow, especially this year. Keep the recipes that signify the season to you in the rotation but since we are all spending so much time at home, you may have other occasions to try the two desserts I am sharing this week and next. And if I can squeeze it in on Instagram, I will share the tastiest (albeit decadent) breakfast casserole that would be delicious for a morning if there are more than a few of you at the breakfast table.
This week’s recipe is for Baklava Crostata. When I saw this recipe in the newly published cookbook, Eating Out Loud by Eden Grinshpan, I knew it was right up my alley for so many reasons. It’s such a great idea, I wish I had thought of it! When you want the flavors of baklava but do not have the time or inclination to handle phyllo dough, or do not have it defrosted on hand, this is such a fun recipe to have in your back pocket.
One of the things I loved about the recipe was that it actually worked, so I am confident sharing it with you here. First, you make a straightforward pastry dough and store bought is fine if you want. Then, you toast up some walnuts and give them a good chop, mixing them with the traditional cinnamon, plus some cloves and cardamom for more depth, lemon zest for a little brightness, sugar and a little melted butter. Place the nuts on the rolled out dough and crimp the edges to keep it all cozy and tight. Give the dough a little egg wash and sprinkling of sugar before popping it into the oven. Bake the crostata and in the meanwhile, make a simple syrup using water, sugar and some lemon juice which you brush on right when the crostata comes out of the oven. Allow it to cool and either serve it like Eden suggest with whipped cream, or like I did with some creme fraiche. I chose the creme fraiche because I brought it to my cousins’s house to share with her so it was a lot easier to transport…
The recipe makes one 12-inch crostata, or you can make two smaller ones if you prefer. The nuts are really the star and while the recipe suggests you can use walnuts or pistachios, I chose walnuts as that is what we traditionally use in Armenian paklava (yes, we spell it with a “p”). I think it would be equally delicious if you use pistachios or a mix might be nice too…
I hope you might consider adding this to your holiday dessert rotation! We have to make the holidays extra sweet this year to compensate for all the saltiness of 2020 in my humble opinion.
Stay well and I will see you next week for another dessert option for your holiday table. Until next time…
One Year Ago: Slow Cooker Chicken Tikka Masala (so good!)
Two Years Ago: One Pot Spicy Chicken and Rice
Three Years Ago: It’s a Wrap, 2017!
Four Years Ago: Cranberry Jalapeno Salsa (if you haven’t tried this, please do!)
Five Years Ago: Homemade Salt Scrubs
Six Years Ago: Sarah Bernhardt Cookies
This recipe comes from the cookbook, Eating Out Loud by Eden Grinshpan. All the flavors of traditional baklava in crostata form. Wish I had thought of this clever merger of desserts! I personally prefer using walnuts in baklava, but if you like the flavor of pistachios then use those or maybe a mix of nuts might be nice. The nuts are mixed with warming spices but if you only have cinammon on hand, it will still be delicious. I served slices with a dollop of creme fraiche instead of the whipped cream. I hope you enjoy it!
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 Tablespoon sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 8 Tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks and kept very cold (see note)
- 1/4 cup ice-cold water, plus a little extra if needed
- 2 cups walnuts or pistachios, toasted
- 4 Tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
- 3 Tablespoons sugar
- 2 Tablespoons heavy cream
- Grated zest of 1 lemon
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
- 2 Tablespoons heavy cream
- 2 teaspoons sugar
- All-purpose flour, for dusting
- 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1/4 cup water
- 1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- Optional - creme fraiche for serving instead of whipped cream
Instructions
- In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar and salt. Pulse a few times to combine. Add the cold butter and pulse until the mixture reaches a sandy texture. Add the ice water a Tablespoon at a time, pulsing until the mixture just holds together. You may not need the full 1/4 cup, or you might need a teaspoon or two more.
- Turn out the dough onto plastic wrap and shape it into a 1/2-inch thick disk. Wrap the dough tightly and refrigerate for one hour.
- Prior to rolling your dough, preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the middle. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper (use two pans if making smaller crostatas with racks in upper and lower thirds of the oven).
- In a food processor or by hand, finely chop the toasted walnuts. You may want to do this in batches if using a food processor to avoid chopping them too fine. You still want some texture to the nuts. In a medium bowl, combine the nuts, melted butter, 3 Tablespoons sugar, cream, lemon zest, salt and spices. Mix thoroughly and set aside.
- Remove the dough from the plastic wrap. I like to let the dough sit out for a few minutes before rolling so it doesn't crack. Sprinkle a little flour on the work surface. Roll out the dough into a 1/4 inch thick round, about 13 inches in width. You can also divide the dough in half and make two smaller crostatas. Spoon the filling over the center of the dough, leaving about a 1/2 inch border around the edges. Lightly brush the edges with water and fold the edges over the filling. Lightly brush the exposed crust with 2 Tablespoons of the cream and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until the crust is lightly golden, about 40 minutes.
- While the crostata is cooking, combine the 1/4 cup of sugar and 1/4 cup of water in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and let the sugar dissolve, about 3 minutes. Continue simmering until the simple syrup reduces slightly, another minute. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. When the crostata comes out of the oven, brush the simple syrup over the top of the filling. It's important to use a cooled syrup on the warm crostata so it spreads evenly. If you forget and the crostata is cooled, warm the syrup up and then add it while warm to the cooled crostata.
- If serving with whipped cream, whip the remaining 1 1/2 cups cream to soft peaks and serve with the crostata. Or serve with a dollop of creme fraiche. Enjoy!
Tips from The Kitchen Scout
When making pastry dough, I like to cut up my butter and then put it back in the fridge or even the freezer for a few minutes to firm up again. I also add some ice cubes to my water to keep it super cold and then use a tablespoon measure to add the liquid slowly to my dough.
[…] Baklava Crostata […]
Such a great idea, Val! Will put this on our list for Christmas eve or night. Looking forward to the breakfast casserole, too, if you get to it : )
OMG — Can’t wait to try this recipe! YUM