Oh dear. It’s rare that my reviews coincide with The Boston Globe’s. However, the infamous Devra First, whose intensely poetic write-ups are both enviable and annoying, has reviewed Orfano this past week as well. I decided to write about our visit to Orfano anyway because it’s always good to get a second opinion on where to spend your dining dollars. Not to mention it’s where my husband and I celebrated Valentine’s day last weekend, and we think if you are in the Fenway area it is worth a visit.
Orfano is the fourth installment in Tiffani Faison’s restaurant group, all of which sit in a row on Boylston Street close to Fenway Park. You may recall my review of her first restaurant, Tiger Mama that appeared here on The Kitchen Scout several years ago? Since then she has opened the standing room only bar, Fool’s Errand and southern bbq restaurant, Sweet Cheeks, neither of which I have visited. Orfano was opened just last Fall and is a combination of steak house that also serves up lots of Italian specialities. In fact, one thing that Ms. First did not mention is the origin of the restaurant’s name which means orphan in English. When I asked our server (who was excellent by the way) if there was a significance to the name, he explained its definition and the fact that the restaurant didn’t want to subscribe to any particular region or style of Italian cooking per se, thus the name “orphan”, a restaurant without a home. Brilliant – leaves the culinary team wide open. And for you martini fans, they make them tableside for your enjoyment.
In any case, my husband and I started our Valentine’s evening at nearby Time Out Market which if you haven’t visited is a lot of fun. A host of food concepts line either side of the old Sears building on Park Street, along with two bars. Seating is open and on a Saturday afternoon, it was packed largely with younger types. We still had fun even though we may have been the oldest in the room, enjoying a cocktail and a delicious tuna taco from Gogo Ya, one of my favorites.
A short walk to Orfano ensued where we ushered to a table pretty close to the kitchen door. Nope, not having that! I hope you are also the pain in the butt who says no if you don’t like where you are seated in a restaurant! In any case, we were taken to a booth thankfully. The restaurant is dark and moody (in a good way) with funky artwork and gorgeous light fixtures. A bar and small seating area anchors one end of the restaurant and the dining area has both tables and booths. I honestly think they should have created an open kitchen because the kitchen door is smack in the middle of the dining area so some diners are going to have their mood lighting interrupted by the constant swing of the door.
On to the menu, we were hungry so we ordered Nonna’s garlic bread from the La Tavola section of the menu while we were debating our dinner selections. Had we known we were to be served long, spindly breadsticks that were salty and a little cheesy, we may not have bothered, but nonetheless, the bread arrived and it took the edge off as we sipped some drinks (ps – not the best pics)…
From the Antipasti section of the menu that also included crudos, calamari and meatballs, I ordered the Clams Orfano which were reminiscent of my parent’s good friend’s famous Clams Casino. Fresh clams were mixed with pancetta, spicy pepper, garlic, herbs and some breadcrumbs. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice brought them to life. I may have liked a little drizzle of some really good olive oil on the top after cooking to give them a little more moisture. But overall, they were delicious…
From the Insalata section of the menu that also included a house chop, and a roasted fall squash, my husband ordered the Orfano Caesar which, as he exclaimed upon finishing it, was very cheesy! Hidden under there are some delicious frico, and half of an avocado that is dusted with black pepper. Yum…
The rest of the menu consists of seven Pasta dishes which are made with house-made pasta, Macelleria, meats including two cuts of beef and chops (veal, pork and lamb), Secondi which covers poultry, fish and a pizza lasagne and Contorni for your bit of healthy veg. The menu is quite ambitious in my opinion. We decided to order one pasta and one meat and share. Our very attentive waiter suggested a contorni so we chose the Sicilian cauliflower.
First, my husband’s lamb chops were perfectly cooked and absolutely delicious, finished with a brush of an anchovy-caper butter. But you have to laugh (or cry) when you are essentially paying over $10 per chop. The dish was $43 and it said double cut Australian rack so unless Australian lambs have fewer ribs, I think it should say half-rack…
My choice was the Lobster bucatini which was divine. Honestly, it’s one of the best dishes I have enjoyed in a restaurant in a very long time and I will go back to Orfano for this dish alone. House made bucatini was bathed in a fabulous brown butter sauce and adorned with large and plentiful chunks of fresh lobster. A little basil and chili finished the dish. A knockout on the plate…
We ate a little bit of the cauliflower, but we could have skipped this and you should too. It was tasty and included the traditional flavors and ingredients of Sicilian style dishes but the proportions seemed off. I would have preferred for the cauliflower to be the star…
Uncharacteristically for us, we did order from the dessert menu which included twists on cannoli, ricotta cheesecake, tiramisu and other confections. We agreed on the Winter Sundae that had Black Current, Prosecco and Chocolate gelato, chocolate panko, oreo panna cotta and a double chocolate biscotti. We took several bites and the gelato was tasty but again, so much going on here! It definitely could bear some simplification…
Our server brought these traditional confections along with our check, also very tasty and had we known they were coming we would have forgone the dessert order. Oh well!
Overall, we had a wonderful experience at Orfano and would return if only for that bucatini and to try the other pastas. As mentioned, service was excellent and the place was lively and fun. Think about it for the next time you are in the Fenway area!
Until next time…
One Year Ago: Review of Chickadee in Boston, Massachusetts
Two Years Ago: Some Kitchen Essentials
Four Years Ago: Homemade Almond Milk
Five Years Ago: Easy Roast Chicken
Six Years Ago: Beef and Butternut Squash Stew