It is hard for me to be in Gloucester without taking a trip down memory lane.
My maternal grandparents had a second home there, relatively near the beach, but it wasn’t a beach house. Does that make sense? It was a place where they, two of the most hardworking people I knew, could take some time to relax from the business they ran together. Grandpa enjoyed working outside in the yard, and Grandma would tend to the house which she kept neat as a pin.
My cousins, Jean and Joyce who I mention here and here and our families spent a lot of time “up in Gloucester” as we used to say. We generally drove up for a Sunday afternoon visit. Our grandparents prepared a feast while we played or sometimes went to the beach. Lobster was predictably on the menu which our grandfather prepared outdoors. He would always cut open the claws and tails for us to make them a little easier to eat at the dining room table. Corn was boiled for exactly three minutes and served with lots of butter. Grandma served her salad in the same wooden salad bowl set that probably appeared on everyone’s dinner tables back then. We drank out of glasses that used to be Welch’s jelly jars with Flintstones cartoons on the side. And for dessert, my grandmother loved to serve Angel Food cake. Life was simple.
There I am! If you look to the left, you can see a grill with a big pot – waiting for the lobsters no doubt…
My friend, Susan, who you met when I reviewed Salt Kitchen & Rum Bar in Ipswich, mentioned we should try to get to The Market Restaurant in Annisquam, a neighborhood in Gloucester, before it closed for the season in October. A seasonal restaurant, The Market is open from May to October (dates are determined by staff availability and site conditions). Accompanying us was our mutual friend, Timm who used to live on the North Shore near Susan until she moved to my neck of the woods west of Boston.
Nico Monday and Amelia O’Reilly, natives of Berkeley, California and Annisquam, Massachusetts respectively opened The Market Restaurant about five years ago. They met while both cooking at Chez Panisse, the Berkeley restaurant founded by culinary pioneer, Alice Waters and have carried much of the essence of the Chez Panisse philosophy across the country with them. The Market’s menu emphasizes fresh and locally sourced ingredients.
The Market is small and intimate, perched right above the Annisquam River on Lobster Cove. When we drove up, the light was just stunning. Here’s one of the views…
A view of the restaurant from the dock…
Succulents and herbs greet us at the door…
Seating on the deck, open air or weather protected, depending on Mother Nature’s whim. There are roughly five tables and bar style seating as shown below…
Indoors, there are eight tables or so and a large bar with ample seating plus a clever chalk drawing of a squid to welcome you!
The decor is very simple and consistent with the casual vibe and waterfront location…
Like at Chez Panisse, The Market’s menu changes nightly based on what is available and this is the menu we were presented last week. I will always know where I was on 9/18/14! Samples of other menus are on the restaurant’s website, along with some stunning photographs of the food, the setting and the people! The pattern seems to be several starters, three or so main dishes including one vegetarian option and about three desserts.
Our server, Lindsay was extremely helpful with our wine and food selections and was attentive throughout the evening. Some of the waitstaff are friends of the owners who come to Gloucester from California for the summer months!
Bread was delivered, a fresh pain epi from A&J King Bakery in Salem, Massachusetts which is now on my list of places to scout! Delicious and as I mention in a prior review, I truly think the bread you are served is an indication of the meal to come. Pain epi is one my personal favorites, formed to look like a stalk of wheat, but somewhat pre-portioned for sharing…
To begin the meal, I ordered the Halibut Tartare which for me, was outside the box but given the setting and the restaurant’s reputation for accessing the freshest ingredients, I wanted to give it a try. It was fabulous…
Garnished with chives and Marash pepper, the dish was composed with shavings of cucumbers, marinated beets and succulent grapefruit supremes. The halibut was tender and a ginger vinaigrette added a nice kick to the dish. The combination was just perfection.
Susan ordered the heirloom tomatoes with anchovy, crouton and mesclun salads. She thought it was delicious. I tasted a couple of the tomatoes and it was dressed perfectly.
For our entrees, Timm and I both ordered the Grassfed Maine Ribeye which was served with a squash puree, roasted cioppolini onions, sauteed spinach & a salsa verde. For my palate, I thought the meat was slightly underseasoned and Timm thought it was fatty, but a ribeye has more marbling by nature so that didn’t bother me. The side dishes were excellent and the salsa verde was a nice complement to the rich steak. As an aside, I do enjoy when restaurants like The Market serve you an entree that has been thoughtfully composed by the chef, rather than menus that ask you to pick your protein and then pick some sides. The chef knows best what flavors will pair well and which ingredients are freshest at the time of service.
Susan loved her selection and because we were gabbing away, I forgot to take a taste! She ordered the Fried Wild Georgia Shrimp with Shellbean Ragu (in this case, cannelini and cranberry beans), Roasted Fennel, Cherry Tomatoes and Aioli. Yum.
We were thinking about skipping dessert but given there were 3 of us and 3 of them, we ordered all the selections to take a taste. Well, we actually almost finished them. First up was the Grapefruit-Campari Sorbetto…
They need to package and sell this, along with the candied citrus peel. Such a refreshing and delicious dessert after a rich meal.
Next up, the Pistachio Ice cream with chocolate-sea salt cookie…
I enjoyed this one, but I preferred the sorbetto and the third dessert which was to die for…
Almond torte with whipped cream and husk cherries. I had never had husk cherries before – they were from a local farm and are part of the tomatillo family. The light torte infused with almond, the sweet cream and the bright flavor of the cherries really came together beautifully.
Starter prices ranged from $10 to $16, mains were $19 to $32 and desserts were $8 or $9.
If you have occasion before October 12th or next summer to make a trip up to Annisquam, you won’t be disappointed. The location is beautiful, the menus are inventive and your meal will be full of color and flavor. As good as any city restaurant, The Market delivers a high quality experience without a lot of fuss. But make a reservation before you go to insure your spot!
So now I have a lot more to think about when I hear Gloucester. Not only is The Market a gem, but also the owners have recently opened their new venture, Short & Main to showcase their love of cooking with wood ovens. Raw Bar, Antipasti, Salads and Pizza complete that menu. Looks like I’ll be heading back “up to Gloucester” sometime soon!
Enjoy.
My grandparents, Mehran and Queenie at their 40th (left) and 60th (right) wedding anniversary celebrations…
