We recently celebrated our twenty-fifth wedding anniversary with a dinner at Menton in Fort Point Channel. Menton is one of the many restaurants owned and operated by Barbara Lynch, native of South Boston, James Beard Award-winner and Relais & Chateaux Grand Chef.
Of Barbara’s restaurants, I have only been to Number 9 Park on a few occasions. We picked Menton because we had a gift certificate that my husband had given to me – wait for it – five years ago and we were finally getting around to using it! To clarify, Menton historically was not the type of restaurant you went to for a casual dinner. It was (and continues to be) fine dining, perhaps best for celebration meals despite pressure to tone down the fancy to make it more competitive in today’s restaurant environment.
I’m glad we waited because we had a truly wonderful and memorable dining experience with one of our daughters. It was reminiscent of dinners in Europe where the attention to detail is first and foremost. The service, cutlery, glassware, china and linens are equal with the food as important elements of your dining experience. It’s how Barbara Lynch described her dream restaurant in her memoir, Out of Line: A Life of Playing with Fire, a book I found highly enjoyable, easy to read and a bird’s eye view into Boston’s restaurant scene as it was truly beginning to blossom in the late 80’s. It also reveals just how much of an impact Ms. Lynch has had on the restaurant scene here in Boston as she has mentored and partnered with many, many recognizable names. And it wouldn’t be a memoir without a glimpse into the chef’s upbringing in Whitey Bulgur’s Southie, one she is lucky to have survived based on some of her accounts!
The woman who saved her from herself and inspired her to start a career in the culinary field, was her high school home economics teacher named Susan Logozzo. Fun fact, Susan was my baking instructor at The Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. She was such an elegant woman even in her chef’s coat and clogs, incredibly confident and just a wonderful teacher. I was fortunate to learn from her.
On to our dinner at Menton. Here’s how it played out.
Entering the restaurant, you find yourself in a small space with a cozy bar that seats 6. Additional small tables for 2 are set up, perhaps 4. Our daughter and I took a seat at the bar while we waited for my husband to walk over from work. Four diners were already seated, enjoying drinks and ordering some food. The bar was intimate and protected from the dining room. When we entered the dining room, I was quite surprised by its decor. I would call it a blend of industrial and rustic, but very chic. Wood tables with black aprons and legs were surrounded by oversized, black wooden chairs that evoked French farmhouse. Chandeliers up top and wood floors below, there was no fabric to be found with the exception of neutral colored pads for the chairs that were quite comfortable. The element of surprise indeed. I loved it and the atmosphere was transporting to countrysides far away…
A little amuse bouche…
And a beautiful roll that I believe was brioche dough. Don’t you love this plate?
Menton has two menus and draws its influences from Italian and French cuisines. The first is a la carte with a very nice selection of starters, pastas, main courses, and desserts. The second is a Chef’s Whim, 8 course menu that was priced at $165. Wine pairings were also offered.
We chose to order a la carte. My starter was this magnificent Baby Beet Salad. Not only was it just stunning on the plate (I am showing you two angles), it was delicious. Burrata, beets that were sliced and diced, avocado puree, pistachios and a saba vinaigrette (saba has a similar flavor profile to balsamic and is produced by boiling down grape must). I would go back for this salad alone…
My husband ordered the Yellowfin Tuna that was served with diced carrots, pomegranate arles, radish and cucumber. This portion was just right and although I didn’t ask for a bite, I imagine the contrast in textures between the crunchy vegetables and the soft tartare made this presentation unique. He really enjoyed it…
Service was exceptional in every way. Our server, John was fun and friendly, attentive but not overly.
Don’t you love it when bread is celebrated? I am a big bread fan so this presentation made me particularly happy. I had a hard time choosing between the focaccia, the ciabatta and the mini baguette (as it turned out, he came around twice so that was a good thing)…
For our entrees, my husband ordered the Agnolotti that was stuffed with veal and golden morels and tossed in a spring garlic pesto. The picture doesn’t do it justice because it was wonderful. The pasta was so delicate and the flavor of the filling was rich and complex but didn’t fight with the pesto. Another winner…
Our daughter ordered the Sourdough Cavatelli that was served with peas, lemon, fennel and basil. She loved this as well and I did get a taste of the cavatelli, another beautifully prepared pasta…
To be different, I ordered from the main courses and chose the prime strip loin that was served with mushrooms, roasted shallot, celery root and a potato mille feuille. The vegetables were my favorite part of the dish, although the meat was well prepared and very tasty. I think my heart was with those pasta dishes in the end…
It’s hard for me to pass up a cheese course and this presentation made me enormously happy. It reminded me (see picture following) of a very special dinner we enjoyed in Paris with my mother at Le Taillevent. Perhaps the most magnificent cheese presentation ever…
And at Taillevant, circa 2012…
Our selections at Menton…
Served with all kinds of goodies, including some delicious honey…
We chose to forego dessert, but we were treated to some delicious macarons and one of my favorites, pate de fruit…
The restaurant was not bustling, but perhaps half-filled if I am generous. That didn’t matter because everything I needed was right at my table on that particular evening. In any case, if you are looking for a place to sit back, relax and enjoy a wonderful dinner such as we experienced, then I would suggest giving Menton a try if you haven’t already. If you are looking for something a little more casual, check out Sportello or Drink which are in the same building and also owned by chef Barbara.
Happy Father’s Day to all the Dads out there! Check the Recipe Index for some inspiration for your cookouts this weekend!
Until next week…
One Year Ago: Scallops Au Poivre with Broccoli and Cauliflower Rice
Two Years Ago: Strawberry Gazpacho
Happy Anniversary! Looks lovely!