Michael Schlow is a fixture of the Boston food scene, although he is equally well known on the national stage.  Schlow currently owns 8 restaurants in California, Washington, D.C., New Hampshire, Connecticut and of course, here in the Boston area.  Maybe you’ve eaten at his tapas restaurant in Back Bay named Tico?  Or visited Alta Strada in Wellesley?  I have been to both and can recommend them highly.

Where you can’t go any longer is Radius, Schlow’s early restaurant that took the financial district by storm, or his beloved Via Matta which was open for 13 years before closing this past spring. He has impressively tackled different cuisines in each location, influenced by the food he likes to prepare and eat, and his travels.

Over the summer, Schlow and his team repurposed the old Via Matta space and in late September he opened his newest restaurant, Doretta Taverna.  The cuisine is chef’s spin on Greek dishes inspired by his wife, Adrienne’s heritage.

I seized the opportunity and booked a reservation for my blog week’s out from the opening, but knew I needed some helpful palates to assess our meal!  Of course, there are many similarities between the Armenian food of my family and Greek cuisine, but there are nuances and distinct differences I didn’t want to miss either.  Yes, I have had plenty of spanikopita and horiatiki salads in my lifetime, and I have even traveled to Greece but I wanted to bring in the big guns.

So, I invited two of my close friends, Theresa and Ann, both of whom are as Greek as I am Armenian and grew up on the food and flavors of their beautiful homeland.  I also invited my cousin, Joyce who is married to a Greek and makes the most delicious Skordalia (potato and garlic dip) you’ve ever tasted.  I figured between the four of us, we would get it right.

The result?  Let’s just say Joyce was eager to plan a return visit with her husband so she could share the special experience with him.  And Ann has already made a return visit and enjoyed another great meal.  While not every dish was a clear winner, most of them were.  We had a fabulous time and enjoyed some delicious food.  The great thing was that my dining companions did not really know each other, but this type of shared eating experience really made for a great evening.

The restaurant is chic and stylish with a large bar area, table and booth seating.  It can be as casual or dressy a night as you choose…

The restaurant’s walls are adorned with artwork produced by Schlow’s wife and artist, Adrienne Schlow.

Prep area for small plates…

Fish on display…

We loved this Greek key paper placemat that was at the center of each table topped with a candle.  The juxtaposition of this old school feature in the stylish new restaurant was playful and a conversation piece…

The cocktail menu has some traditional offerings and some specialty drinks.  Others had a Manhattan and a Cosmo, but I chose Persephone’s Seeds which was a mixture of bourbon, tentura (a spicy, citrusy Greek liqueur), pomegranate juice and celery bitters.  It was very tasty…

The menu is layered and very flexible.  Raw bar selections range from oysters to yellowtail and are garnished with a variety of fresh, citrusy and herby flavors, olives, fennel and red chiles.

Homemade Spreads ($5-7) such as roasted eggplant with walnuts & red pepper and cucumber with mint & yogurt are served with homemade flatbreads.  Small Plates ($8-16) range from grilled octopus and warm shrimp to gigandes beans and roasted peppers.

If you don’t fill up on the smaller plates, you can order a selection of fresh fishes and meats that range from a branzino to chicken with garlic & herbs or a slow cooked pork with cumin & coriander.  All are priced per person ($26-48).  Sides ($7-9) such as Mimi’s lemon & rosemary potatoes, named for Schlow’s mother in law and roasted cauliflower with jalapenos & pistachios finish off the dinner menu.

Note that Schlow has purposely not written the Greek names of these dishes but chosen rather to describe them by ingredients, making them more accessible to the diner.  I suppose this also allows him the culinary license to be creative with ingredients perhaps not completely integral to the Greek cuisine.

Until prompted by our questions, our server was neither proactive in helping us navigate the menu, nor did he make recommendations.  Once he knew we wanted some guidance, however, he was helpful if a bit aloof during the evening.

We decided to order two spreads to start.  The cauliflower spread was thickened with potato and served with a dollop of caviar…

We also tried the whipped feta with jalapenos.  While the cauliflower was very tasty, the whipped feta was a flavor explosion that we all really enjoyed and that I am hoping to try at home…

Next up, we tried the Village Salad.  There used to be a stall in Faneuil Hall where I got take out Greek salads when I was working downtown that I still dream about.  This salad from Doretta Taverna was outstanding.  Simple by design, but huge on flavor with a perfect, acidic vinaigrette.  I would go back for this salad alone…

Next up, we ordered several small plates.  We started with the Crispy Zucchini Chips that were served with a spicy cucumber sauce.  Perfectly fried and seasoned, this was another must-have dish…

We also ordered the Brussels Sprouts that were served with Loukaniko (Greek sausage), jalapenos and honey.  I think we were fighting over the last sprout…

And of course, it isn’t a complete Greek meal without some Spinach Pie or Spanokopita.  The restaurant has limited availability of this according to its menu.  Working with phyllo is a labor of love so we all especially appreciated this dish.  It wasn’t the best I have ever tasted, but we loved it anyway. I think I will make my version of this dish soon…

We also shared a plate of the Lamb Meatballs that were flavored with cumin and served with yogurt and lemon zest.  Crispy on the outside and moist on the inside, these were especially memorable…

We ordered one more small plate that was Bulgur Wheat tossed with charred broccoli, capers, sultanas and chiles.  I didn’t get a great shot of it and truthfully, it was not our favorite.

We had eaten plenty, but there were two more dishes we had to order to make the meal complete. Before dessert of course.  The first was the restaurant’s slow cooked (15 hours) lamb shoulder.  Lamb is as important to Greek cuisine as it is to Armenian so we were all eager to try it.  This is a must order as well.  Although there was mention that the Braintree church festival’s version is better, there was also mention that it reminded my friend of her grandfather’s preparation.  The lamb was tender and melted in your mouth and probably sparked the most conversation and sentimentality of the evening…

And to go with them, we ordered Greek French Fries, which, if you look at the title sounds funny. Sliced potatoes were dusted with spices, crispy and served with a seasoned yogurt.  Very good…

We couldn’t leave without ordering at least one dessert so we selected Galaktoboureko, a dish prepared with phyllo dough that is filled with a creamy semolina custard.  Doretta’s version was topped with a tangerine syrup, dried plums and apricots and finished with a dusting of powdered sugar.  We thought the custard was a little dry, but overall the dish was quite delicious.  Other dessert items include baklava, Greek yogurt with candied walnuts & honey, cakes, gelatos and sorbets.  My friends were surprised that Rizogalo, a traditional Greek rice pudding was not on the menu.

This is a restaurant best experienced in a small group so that you can try as many dishes as possible, although I wouldn’t hesitate going with just two people.  It would be fun to sit at the bar and share some spreads and small plates with a good friend.

My next outing ironically is to another Greek inspired restaurant, Ithaki in Ipswich with Ann and her mother for a Christmas lunch.  I am excited to check it out and get even more inspiration for my kitchen.

Until next week!

One Year Ago: A review of Dumpling Daughter in Weston, Massachusetts